When you look at the Fall 2016 runways
— the place countless trends are born — you may feel nostalgic for your
middle-school days. Styles from the '90s such as Topsy Turvy ponytails,
teased '80s hair, and girlish pigtails are making a comeback.
These old-school trends were reimagined in modern ways. For instance,
Preen made us want to embrace scarf headbands, while Prabal Gurung sent
his models down the runway with inverted ponytails (re: the Topsy
Tail). And Michael Kors showed us pigtails that you'll want to wear IRL.
"As always, everything old is new," said Kerastase consulting hairstylist Matt Fugate.
"Everything gets done again in time, but with a new modern-day twist.
This is mainly due to social media and the access that people have to
get themselves out there. You can play with so many looks from so many
eras. My best advice is to have fun with it. Add your own spin on the
trends!"
The throwback look: Pigtails. "I think it's safe to
say almost all girls have rocked pigtails in their lifetime — from when
you were a little kid to Pippy Longstocking's signature 'do," said
Fugate. Runway spotted at:Michael Kors Fall 2016 The update: "For the new twist on the look, this is
definitely what I would call the cool-girl balanced pigtail," he
explained. "Essentially, this look takes the old-school pigtail and
makes it a more vertically parallel pigtail. Instead of having your
pigtails stick out to the side like when you were little, you do a lower
placement, almost bringing the pigtails completely to the back of the
head."
DIY it:
"It is all about balanced sectioning with this look," Fugate started.
"Part hair where you want it. For this one, we did a side part, but when
we sectioned off the pigtail, we ensured that they were the same in
size. Feel the density of your hair as you pull the tails back, as you
don't want one pigtail looking strong or one wimpy."
After parting the hair, spritz a lightweight oil like Kérastase Elixir Ultime Bi-Phase Spray Oil
($58) all over. This not only adds shine, but also helps in the
securing process of the pigtails — making it easier to pull back and
eventually wrap the hair. Secure the tails at the nape of the neck, and
make sure it looks super parallel. "The closer they get together, the
cooler," he added.
Forgoing traditional elastics will also update your double ponytails.
"A fun twist on the look is to wrap the pigtails in elastic twine
vs. rubber bands. This gives it a little more attitude," Fugate
explained. "The twine also gives you control when styling the hair. And
it helps to avoid bumps and rigidness in the hair that elastics can
cause. When you are wrapping the twine, it is locking the hair in place,
rather than using a rubber band moving the hair around a lot as you
flip the hair into the band loop."
To secure the tails, hold the pigtail where you want it to stay, then
wrap the twine around. "Once you start wrapping, you can't really move
it around as you can with rubber bands," Fugate said.
Fugate added that you can have fun with it choosing twine with
different thickness or colors that contrast with your hair. Try black on
blond or a bright statement shade on brunette. You can also try
ribbons, shoelaces, or any other crafty tie of your choice.
The throwback look: "Remember going to ballet class
and having to rock the ballerina bun?" Fugate said. "Or even just a
normal bun that we used to do right at the back of the head? "Well this
new topknot takes a more edgy look." The update: "This is no longer the tightly wrapped
ballet bun," he described. "This one is effortless and a statement. The
higher you move the bun on the head, the cooler it becomes. You want to
make people stop and look at your hair. Rock this bun, and your hair
will be the first thing that people notice." Runway spotted at:Thakoon Fall 2016, created by Odile Gilbert for Kérastase Paris
Twist the loose hair of the tail, and keep turning it until it coils
into a tight bun. "The twisting of the hair helps the bun take shape,"
Fugate explained. "This look is awesome for girls with a ton of hair!"
Wrap hair around the secured elastic area. "Have fun with this part —
there is no 'perfect' way to do it," he added. "Embrace the different
shapes of the twist. The end look should be something that is 'perfectly
imperfect.'"
Use hair pins to keep it in place and centered. If you have trouble
getting your pins to stay, Fugate advises spraying them with a dry
shampoo for more grip. Try Kérastase Powder Bluff ($37), which adds texture without feeling sticky.
The throwback look: "Updos and chignons used to be
an old, stuffy look," Fugate said. "We'd rock it at homecoming and prom,
but never for the everyday look. This new take on the chignon
challenges just that. It's more wearable. The twists and shape it takes
on makes it edgier and funky. Girls experiment more and more with their
hair, and I think the quickness of this style and the ability to
actually do it at home makes it even better." The update: "The braids are the key to taking this
look to the next level and making it more modern and cool," he said.
"Braids are having their moment, and you can do so much with them from a
three-strand to fishtail and more. As we go into Fall, this braided
chignon takes a different approach to braids vs. the festival-style
braids we rocked in the Summer." Runway spotted at:Marchesa Fall 2016
DIY it: Start by applying a thickening gel like Kérastase Matérialiste
($37) all over and dry the hair. This will help thicken the hair fiber
and is a savior for braids. Next, create a ponytail at the nape of the
neck, and then wrap half of the ponytail around the elastic. Add hair
pins for extra holding power.
Wrap the braid around into a bun shape and pin it. "Because it is
bound at the nape and bound at the tail, it makes it so much easier to
wrap and looks cool at every angle," Fugate said.
The throwback look: "Throwing it back to the '90s now!" Fugate said. "The Topsy Tail
was every girl's go-to back in the day, and it is actually my new
partner in crime lately. The Topsy Tail was an essential tool to help
easily create lopped ponytails, but they're not just for that typical
ponytail that you used to do!" The update: "Now, we can make cool updos and looks
with a throwback tool," he explained. "This helps bring the craft of
hair artistry into your home, and gives girls the power to do fun updos
themselves. I am a huge proponent on making use of old things and
bringing new light to them. Topsy Tails do so much more than create that
ponytail we grew to love. You can create sick updos, tuck in flyaways,
weave in stray hairs in braids, etc." Runway spotted at:Prabal Gurung Fall 2016 featured an twisted "Topsy Tail" ponytail
DIY it:
Create two ponytails — one at the crown to top of the head and one
toward the middle of the head/nape of the neck — and secure them with
elastics. "These will act as your base and will also be rolled inside
out and will become the texture to the updo," Fugate explained.
First, create a flipped ponytail on your top section. To do this, use
the Topsy Tail tool or make a hole on top of the elastic with your
finger, and pull the tail over the top and through it.
Then, create a second identical style on the bottom section, using
the loose hair from both ponytails. The Topsy Tail can guide both
ponytails into the space right above the elastic of the bottom pony, or
try the trick with your fingers from above.
"Basically, thread the tail behind the elastic (close to your scalp),
then pull the hair through the loop and pull the Topsy through when you
are done with this step," Fugate advised.
"When you are done with this step, it should look like the top pony
and bottom pony were flipped into the bottom to create one large pony
that hangs low at the nape of your neck," Fugate noted.
Once ponytails are combined, twist the loose tail until it is taut (the same way you create a topknot above).
"Once it is really twisted and roped, you can start draping it
around the nape and pin it in place," Fugate said. "This is when the fun
begins. Be playful here. The whole look is sort of je ne sais quoi, and
no two will look the same."
Use hair pins to secure your work in place, and set with hair spray such as Kérastase Laque Dentelle ($37).
The throwback look: "In the '80s, teasing the hair
was something everyone did — the bigger the hair, the better," Fugate
said. "Headscarves have had a couple different appearances throughout
hair history, from the '40s-war era to the '70s hippie-chic style." The update: "Teasing is no longer something that has
to stay in the '80s, nor do headscarves have to stay in the '40s and
'70s," he explained. "For this look, it is all about mixing the eras
together to create a superchic, rocker-girl style. The combination of
the teased, texturized look and the headscarf creates more impact and
interest. The hair sort of takes on a '50s-'60s [Brigitte] Bardot style,
yet mixed with the turban-like headscarf, you modernize the look." Runway spotted at:Preen Fall 2016
DIY it: To start, apply a texturing spray like Kérastase V.I.P.
($37) all over the hair. This helps give the hair volume and that
"Bardot" body. Tease hair and do a combed-back style, leaving the rest
of the hair textured and messy. To tease hair, gently rub a comb back
and forth.
Solution: Work from your forehead back toward the
crown, with the amount of hair you'd grab to pull it into a half-up
style. Once you're done teasing, secure the half-back section with a
clear elastic.
Tie your scarf however you'd like around your crown, covering the
elastic. If you feel you need extra hold, pin it into place. The hidden
mini ponytail helps keep that volume from falling. You can mist more
hair spray on the midlengths to ends of the hair for added texture below
the headband.
"You can have fun here," Fugate added. "Pair the teased look with a
more subtle headband or smaller scarf. Or even grab some chic barrettes
and hair accessories. It's about experimentation!"
We used a Cult Gaia Turband ($60).
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